Puppy, Adult, Senior, Allergies, Illness: What food does your dog really need?

Puppy or senior. Couch potato or sports star. Allergic or perfectly healthy. Every dog is different – and that's exactly why there is no single perfect dog food.

What keeps one fit can overwhelm the other. What helps growth can be harmful in old age. And what a healthy dog easily digests can cause itching in an allergic dog.

In this guide, we'll show you which food really suits your dog – by life stage, activity level, health, and special needs. Clear recommendations, without marketing talk.

Before you decide on a food, it's worth taking an honest look at your dog. Four factors determine what they really need:

• Life stage: Puppy, adult dog, senior – the requirements change fundamentally.
• Activity level: Couch potato, family dog, or sports dog – the energy requirements can triple.
• Health condition: Overweight, allergies, dental problems, or chronic illnesses require tailored recipes.
• Size & breed: Small breeds need more energy per kilo than large ones; large breeds grow more slowly.

The wrong food at the wrong time can lead to growth disorders, obesity, allergies, or deficiencies. When chosen correctly, however, food is the best prevention you can give your dog.

You can find more about the basics of species-appropriate dog nutrition in our guide "What do dogs eat?".

The first few months of life are the most important. What your dog eats now influences their bones, joints, muscles, and even brain development – for life.

What puppy food must provide:

• Protein: High-quality protein (28–32%) for muscle development and growth.
• Minerals: A precise ratio of calcium and phosphorus – usually 1.2:1 to 1.4:1.
• Fatty acids: Omega-3 (DHA) for the brain, eyes, and nervous system.
• Energy density: High, because a puppy's stomach is small, but their requirements are huge.

Important: Large breeds (over 25 kg as adults) need specially formulated puppy food. They grow more slowly and cannot tolerate food that is too energy-dense – otherwise, they risk joint problems such as HD or ED.

Do you have a puppy at home? Feel free to check out our guide to puppy food, where we go into detail about puppy nutrition.

Between the first and about the seventh year of life, your dog is in its best shape. Now it's no longer about growing, but about maintenance and movement.

What makes good adult food:

• Protein: Balanced, usually 22–28%, depending on the activity level.
• Energy: Tailored to activity level – we'll go into more detail on that in a moment.
• Fiber: Plentiful, but not excessive – it supports digestion and satiety.
• Vitamins & minerals: Complete and in their natural form.

Pay attention to the manufacturer's feeding recommendations, but remain critical. Every dog is different. An active Border Collie needs more than a relaxed Pug – even if they weigh the same.

When a dog becomes a senior depends on the breed. Small breeds are usually classified as seniors at 8–10 years, large breeds as early as 6–7 years. The metabolism slows down, activity decreases – the food should take this into account.

What matters with senior food:

• Reduced energy: About 10–20% fewer calories than adult food.
• Protein: Less, but very high-quality and easily digestible.
• Functional additives: Glucosamine, chondroitin, and omega-3 for the joints.
• Reduced phosphorus content: Protects the aging kidneys.
• Consistency: If teeth are failing, soft or soaked food is more pleasant.

Seniors are more prone to obesity – but also to muscle loss. A common mistake: too little protein. Older dogs actually need more high-quality protein, just in a more digestible form.

Two dogs of the same age and weight can have completely different energy requirements. One lies on the couch 22 hours a day, while the other runs through the woods for five hours during mantrailing. The difference in calorie requirements can quickly be double or triple.

Quiet & less active dogs

House dogs, retired seniors, neutered dogs with a leisurely gait. Their metabolism is slowed down, and their requirements are about 10–20% below standard. Important: smaller portions are better than inferior light versions with fillers. High-quality food, just less of it.

Normally active dogs

Family dog with two walks a day, occasional play, walks. Standard adult food is suitable – with an eye on weight and energy.

Very active dogs & sports dogs

Mantrailing, agility, canicross, sled dogs, working hunting dogs. Their requirement for fat and high-quality protein is significantly increased. They need food with high energy density and plenty of omega-3 fatty acids for regeneration.

Are you unsure about the quality of your dog's current food? Our blog post "How to recognize good dog food" shows you what you should really look for on the label.

About 10% of all dogs react sensitively to ingredients in their food. Common symptoms: itching, skin redness, ear infections, diarrhea, or frequent vomiting. It is important to know that a genuine food allergy is rarer than an intolerance. However, both present similarly.

Common allergy triggers:

• Animal proteins (mostly beef, chicken, milk, egg)
• Certain types of grain (wheat, less often than previously thought)
• Artificial additives, colorings, and preservatives
• Low-quality fillers (meat by-products, binders)

What helps dogs with allergies?

Single-protein food: Only one animal protein source. This makes it easier to identify and avoid triggers.

Hypoallergenic food: Hydrolyzed protein (broken down into tiny building blocks) or unusual protein sources such as horse, kangaroo, or insects – types of meat your dog's immune system has probably never encountered.

Fresh food with clear labeling: If you know exactly what goes into your dog's bowl, you can systematically rule out triggers. Industrially processed food with "animal by-products" makes this practically impossible.

Is your dog refusing their food despite being hungry? Read our guide on picky dogs – sometimes there is more to it than just taste.

For some conditions, nutrition is no longer just a detail, but part of the treatment. This requires specially formulated therapeutic diets – and always veterinary supervision.

The most important medical diets:

Obesity: Reduced fat and calorie content, higher fiber content for satiety. Obesity is the most common nutritional disease in dogs – and the number one risk factor for diabetes, joint problems, and cardiovascular diseases.

Gastrointestinal problems: Easily digestible bland food, often with chicken, rice, or turkey. For acute problems, use it briefly; for chronic gastrointestinal sensitivity, use it long-term.

Kidney disease: Reduced phosphorus and protein content – but only in high-quality food. Relieves the kidneys without starving the dog.

Liver disease: Easily digestible proteins, often supplemented with plant-based ingredients. Copper content is reduced.

Diabetes mellitus: Complex carbohydrates, high fiber content, consistent meal times. Blood sugar remains more stable, and insulin requirements decrease.

Joint problems (HD, ED, osteoarthritis): Glucosamine, chondroitin, omega-3 fatty acids. For obesity, these must be combined with calorie reduction – every extra pound puts strain on the joints.

The main differences between the food types – summarized concisely:

Dry food

The classic: convenient and affordable. Since it contains hardly any water, it is highly concentrated.

• Advantage: It is easy to portion and has a long shelf life.

• The catch: Many varieties contain a lot of grain or starch so that the kibble retains its shape. In addition, dogs have to drink an enormous amount to compensate for the lack of moisture.

Wet food

Canned food smells more intense and provides a lot of moisture.

• Advantage: Dogs usually eat it very gladly, and the moisture is good for the kidneys.

• The catch: Due to the intense heating during canning, natural vitamins are often lost, which later have to be added back artificially.

BARF (raw feeding)

Here, everything is fed raw – meat, bones, and vegetables.

• Advantage: Very natural and free from artificial additives.

• The catch: It is complicated. You have to know exactly which nutrients the dog needs so that no deficiencies occur. In addition, there is always a certain risk with raw meat due to bacteria (such as salmonella).

The winner in terms of digestibility: freshly cooked food

Freshly cooked food combines the best of all worlds. It is like a homemade meal that is specially tailored to your dog's needs.

• Why it is better:

  • Easy digestion: Gentle cooking "unlocks" the ingredients for the dog's intestine. He can absorb the nutrients much better than with raw food or highly processed dry food.

  • Maximum safety: Heating reliably kills germs and bacteria, while the vitamins are preserved by low temperatures.

  • No hidden additives: You see exactly what goes into the bowl – real meat, fresh vegetables, and high-quality oils, completely without artificial preservatives or cheap fillers.

  • Ideal for sensitive dogs: Because it is so natural and pure, it is often the savior for dogs with a sensitive stomach or allergies.

Your dog's gastrointestinal tract is accustomed to routine. An abrupt switch often leads to diarrhea or vomiting. Proceed gradually:

• Days 1–2: 25% new food, 75% old food.
• Days 3–4: 50% / 50%.
• Days 5–6: 75% new, 25% old food.
• From day 7: 100% new food.

For sensitive dogs, it's best to allow two weeks. Monitor their stool, appetite, and energy levels. If anything remains noticeable for more than a few days, see your vet.

There is no single perfect dog food. There is the right one – for your dog, at his life stage, with his activity level, with his history.

Life stage, activity, health, and individual sensitivities are the four key factors. Choosing carefully here gives your dog more than just a full bowl: namely quality of life – and on average several additional years of life.

Unsure what suits your dog? Let HelloBello create your individual meal plan – tailored to age, breed, weight, activity, and sensitivities. In just a few minutes, you'll know what your dog really needs.